Injector pump removal/refitting, timing Di/DTi X20DTH X20DTL

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Injector pump removal/refitting, timing Di/DTi X20DTH X20DTL

Post by admin-1 on Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:42 am

Haynes covers the pump pretty well but there are shortcuts that make it cheaper and simpler. For instance, you don't need the engine locking set (£110).

•Put the front wheels on ramps. Failing that, just jack up the driver's side front.
•Disconnect battery.
•Remove airbox.
•Remove rocker cover and vacuum pump.
•Remove aux drive belt and undo tensioner bolt (tensioner can stay attached).
•Use a trolley jack to support the engine and remove the offside engine mounting.
•Remove injector pump sprocket cover (raise/lower engine as req'd to get access to the torx screws).
•Set engine to no.1 TDC firing:
-- Align crank pulley notch.
-- Check the cam lobes for no.1 are at 2-o'clock and 10-o'clock (turn crank another 360deg if not).
-- Using a 6mm bar (or thereabouts), check that the injector pump timing holes are aligned. Essentially, there's an alignment hole in the sprocket and one on the pump body. If the pump's aligned then the bar will go through the sprocket and locate into the pump.
-- Check that the slot on the end of the camshaft is horizontal.
•Scribe a small mark on the cam/sprocket so that you can re-align them precisely (the sprocket isn't keyed onto the cam).
•Remove cam sprocket and tie the chain up so it doesn't drop into the engine.
•Remove the pump sprocket bolts and the outter sprocket.
•Using a long AF socket through the remaining timing chain sprocket, remove the E10(?) bolts securing the injector pump. [I got away with an AF long-reach socket but I can't remember what size it was].
•If you haven't done so already, remove inlet manifold pipe, injector pipes etc etc.
•Remove pump electrical connector.
•Remove the bolts fixing the pump to the block and slide the pump out.
[I don't doubt that I've forgotten a few steps along the way but this list should help you with the most important points.]

Refitting is essentially the reverse of this. If you have a problem getting the chains back on you'll probably need to slacken the upper and lower chain tensioners - there's two (15 or 17mm AFAICR) 'bolts' on the rear face of the timing chain cover that just need slackening off.

Obviously, be very thorough re-aligning the timing marks!

It will take ages to bleed the fuel through after refitting. Quicker if you slacken off the injector unions and crank until you see fuel coming from each union.
It took me about 2 hours to do mine but for a novice it can take about 4 hours or possibly longer.

It's worth whipping the camshaft out and replacing the injector seals while you're at it. They're a common failure on these engines.

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